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Know No Borders

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Chicago, IL, 60607
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Know No Borders Expedition

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URUGUAY

April 29, 2014 James Stauber
Checking and cleaning all the fuses and hoping for a miracle.

Checking and cleaning all the fuses and hoping for a miracle.

Right before entering Uruguay through Colon, La Terminator (our vehicle) decided it wouldn't cooperate again. It was a Friday afternoon and no mechanic was interested in helping us as everyone was getting ready for the weekend. That would mean that we would be stuck in Colon until at least Monday. Kind souls made a ton of phone calls and talked a mechanic into taking us. The fuel pump was changed in couple of hours, the electronics were cleaned and we were alleviated of $2000 pesos. We parked along the river Uruguay and had an amazing night swim. The next morning we took another swim and then drove to the border. Just because the car problems were solved (temporarily) too quickly, I realized that I was missing the Argentinian Aduana vehicle documentation. I always place all the immigration documents in the same plastic folder yet on this occasion I just couldn't find them. The border officers suggested they would impound La Terminator, which would mean another protracted delay. In the end kindness and rational thinking prevailed and we were allowed to pass. Driving through Uruguay was a serene experience. We encountered very few people on the road and all around us were farms and fields. The gasoline was more expensive than in Argentina, actually everything seemed more expensive, almost on the level we encountered in Chile. We drove all the way to Salto, from where we entered Argentina for the last time in order to get to Iguazu and Paraguay.

 

A photo album is available here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.743766582312182.1073741927.392545607434283&type=1&l=659f57aae6

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Road from Rio Gallegos to Pinamar, Argentina

April 24, 2014 James Stauber

Most people drive this huge stretch of roads exhausted coming back from Ushuaia and nearly everyone complains of the monotony of the Argentinian pampas. Well, if you know how to look you will find excitement and beauty and hopefully I was able to reflect it through these photographs.

Photo album here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.740043586017815.1073741925.392545607434283&type=1

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BUENOS AIRES

April 22, 2014 James Stauber
Night tango in the heart of the city.

Night tango in the heart of the city.

The "Paris of South America", Buenos Aires is a huge and vibrant city full of culture, music, fashion, wealth, poverty, crime, and life. My time here was partly spent in utter frustration and anger while I tried to claim the oil pan that I ordered from Chicago. That will take an essay to explain, which I will perhaps write later. Another part of my stay was pure joy drinking deep the sights and sounds of this proud and bustling city. So much can be felt here- the pure romance of tango in the evening, the art novou through post modernist downtown, the smells of the diverse restaurants, the high fashion shops, and the ghettos.

 

 

 

 

Photo Album: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.742182949137212.1073741926.392545607434283&type=1&l=d81bd56e45

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PAMPAS

April 17, 2014 James Stauber
Chilean Flamingos flying over the Argentinian pampas.

Chilean Flamingos flying over the Argentinian pampas.

Most people drive this huge stretch of roads exhausted coming back from Ushuaia and nearly everyone complains of the monotony of the Argentinian pampas. Well, if you know how to look you will find excitement and beauty and hopefully I was able to reflect it through these photographs.

 

 

Photo Gallery: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.740043586017815.1073741925.392545607434283&type=1&l=288cce9d44

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EL CALATAFE

April 15, 2014 James Stauber
The hues of blue, white and purple play together to create this magical vista.

The hues of blue, white and purple play together to create this magical vista.

Perito Moreno is one of the most beautiful glaciers I have seen. It is located in the Los Glaciales National Park in Santa Cruz province, Argentina. It's 30km long and a part of an ice field that is the world's third largest reserve of sweet water. The day I came there were clouds rolling over it reflecting in many hues the deep blue color of the densely packed ice of the glacier.

 

 

 

 

Here is a photo album: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.739060552782785.1073741923.392545607434283&type=1&l=747fb3be43

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EL CHALTEN PT2

April 14, 2014 James Stauber
Hiking in the wilderness of Patagonia.

Hiking in the wilderness of Patagonia.

Just like wild Alaska but easier to hike, the mountains and forests around the small town of El Chalten offer gorgeous views and very enjoyable walks, despite the strong winds and quickly changing weather. This was my father's favorite location in South America.

 

 

 

Photo album available here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.735773836444790.1073741922.392545607434283&type=1&l=8962983004

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EL CHALTEN

April 13, 2014 James Stauber
The famous mountain Fitz Roy in the background.

The famous mountain Fitz Roy in the background.

While waiting for the car parts I ordered from Chicago to arrive to Rio Gallegos, we decided to take a trip by bus to El Calafate and from there to El Chalten to do some hiking in arguably the most beautiful region of Argentina. The famous mountain Fitz Roy famously seemed to always be obscured by clouds but I think I got a couple of pretty good shots.

 

 

 

Photos here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.734241863264654.1073741921.392545607434283&type=1&l=c384a1855c

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USHUAIA - TIERRA DEL FUEGO

April 11, 2014 James Stauber
The End of The World!

The End of The World!

Driving through Tierra del Fuego and finally arriving at Ushuaia (the disputed southern-most city in the world) I felt a mix of deep sense of accomplishment (thinking how the hell did I drive my van there from Chicago via Alaska?!), worry (the vehicle might not make it much farther), disappointment (I didn't have enough money left in the budget to travel to Antarctica), and relief (one major section of my expedition was successfully behind me).

 

 

 

Photo gallery: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.732411693447671.1073741920.392545607434283&type=1&l=c815d80fd0

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ARGENTINIAN PATAGONIA TO TIERRA DEL FUEGO

April 9, 2014 James Stauber
First few steps on the Tierra del Fuego, Strait of Magellan in the bacground.

First few steps on the Tierra del Fuego, Strait of Magellan in the bacground.

Argentinian southern Patagonia is a land of rolling sandy hills with sparse vegetation inhabited by gauchos (Argentinian cowboys), oil drilling industry workers, thousands of species of llama and millions of sheep. What one notices immediately is the enormously powerful and unrelenting cold wind. It makes it hard to walk and brings with it particles of sand that always seem to find their way into your mouth. I constantly felt the grains in between my teeth, to which I never got used to.

Normally this would be a rather monotonous drive but here is where our vehicle problems began. As we pressed down on the acceleration pedal nothing happened and the van started losing speed. Then the engine sputtered for some time and we regained acceleration. Then we lost it again and this kept repeating. The odyssey visiting mechanics began. Nevertheless we managed to reach the Strait of Magellan that was the dividing line between us and Tierra del Fuego.

Photo gallery: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.731443876877786.1073741919.392545607434283&type=1

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FROM LAGO GENERAL TO CHILE CHICO

March 22, 2014 James Stauber
The beautiful Lago General

The beautiful Lago General

The drive around the Lago General was my favorite in South America, rivaling only the Alaskan Highway. One of my favorite flowers, wild roses, were everywhere and their aroma filled the air. One day I hope to return and spend a month or two here.

 

 

 

Photo album available here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.728499920505515.1073741918.392545607434283&type=1&l=99fda75ee3

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MARBLE CATHEDRAL - PART2

March 20, 2014 James Stauber
Swimming in the ice cold water among the rock formations and caves. One one the most powerful experiences of my life.

Swimming in the ice cold water among the rock formations and caves. One one the most powerful experiences of my life.

It was a sunny but chilly day, the water was even colder but clean with a turquoise tint and I had the uncontrollable urge to set aside common sense and go for a swim. Everyone shivering in the boat thought I was crazy. Needless to say the water felt like thousands of needles piercing my skin but soon I forgot all about it as I was overwhelmed by the beauty of my surroundings. This was by far the highlight of my Carretera Austral journey through Chile.

 

 

 

Photos available here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.726599047362269.1073741917.392545607434283&type=1

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Marble Cathedral (Catedral del Marmor) PT.1

March 19, 2014 James Stauber

In the cold but beautiful Chilean Patagonia, somewhere along the shores of Lago General, there is a beautiful area of marble and granite stone formations hallowed out by water over thousands of years. The patterns remind me of Gaudi's art a...nd actually surpass it by its fearlessness, imagination and colors. I took a day trip to see the "catedral" along with a group of mostly Chilean tourists. This was one of the highlights of my Patagonian journey.

Photo gallery: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.725893500766157.1073741916.392545607434283&type=1

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LAGO GENERAL

March 17, 2014 James Stauber
They called this the dog’s head, as the rock forms the shape of a dog.

They called this the dog’s head, as the rock forms the shape of a dog.

In the cold but beautiful Chilean Patagonia, somewhere along the shores of Lago General, there is a beautiful area of marble and granite stone formations hallowed out by water over thousands of years. The patterns remind me of Gaudi's art and actually surpass it by its fearlessness, imagination and colors. I took a day trip to see the "cathedral" along with a group of mostly Chilean tourists. This was one of the highlights of my Patagonian journey.

 

 

 

Photo gallery here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.725893500766157.1073741916.392545607434283&type=1&l=087ddef5bb

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CARRETERA AUSTRAL SOUTH

March 15, 2014 James Stauber
I stumbled on an old settlers’ cemetery.  Strange how they built miniature houses over the graves.

I stumbled on an old settlers’ cemetery.  Strange how they built miniature houses over the graves.

This is the southern Carretera Austral in Chile. A land full of colors and wind and remnants of the first European settlers who lived and died trying to tame this wilderness. This is one of my favorite places in South America.

 

 

 

Photo album available here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.724709204217920.1073741915.392545607434283&type=1&l=5f63c0815b

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SOUTHERN CHILE

March 12, 2014 James Stauber
One of the many picturesque fjords in Southern Chile.

One of the many picturesque fjords in Southern Chile.

After our accident I really needed some rest and it came in the form of a luxury hot mineral water spa located right on a fjord that offered amazing panorama. I was lucky to be there completely alone and on top of it the guy who ran the entrance accepted the $20 bill I offered him under the table. (The entrance fee was somewhere around $60). We continued driving through breathtaking environment, my favorite part of our South American journey.

 

 

 

Photo album here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.717239461631561.1073741914.392545607434283&type=1&l=5886af0438

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DISASTER ON THE CARRETERA

March 8, 2014 James Stauber
Oil pan cracked wide open in the middle of nowhere.

Oil pan cracked wide open in the middle of nowhere.

La Junta is a small sleepy town somewhere on the Carretera Austral in southern Chile. Under any other circumstances we'd pass it by or stop for a short break but in our case we got to know it much better. As we sped along the treacherous gravel/dirt road there happened to be some large stones in the middle of the road. Due to our speed we were unable to slow down and drive around them. We rammed one of the rocks, which cracked wide open the oil pan like a can of sardines. Almost immediately all the motor oil was gone and we were stuck in the middle of nowhere with no means of repairing the damage or moving forward. This was one of my lowest moments during the expedition. I walked away, wanting to be left alone, thinking this could very likely be a premature end to the trip. About 20 minutes later we hear a motorcycle approaching and who it is but our friend Pavel from Jawa kolem světa who we met in Argentina a few days prior. He happened to have a cold weld compound that we used to temporarily plug most of the hole/cracks in the oil pan. Then someone else stopped by and gave us a nasty black used diesel oil that we squeamishly poured in La Terminator and that enabled us to make it the 30mi long trek to La Junta where we found a great Chilean mechanic who after a few attempts stopped most of the oil leakage. He advised us to replace the oil pan with a new one as soon as we can, which we finally did in Buenos Aires. To my surprise we were able to continue our journey the following day.

 

 

Photo album available here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.715598471795660.1073741913.392545607434283&type=1&l=ee996152d1

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CARRETERA AUSTRAL

March 6, 2014 James Stauber
Forgotten church in the middle of nowhere.

Forgotten church in the middle of nowhere.

To me this has been the most picturesque drive through South America. Chilean Patagonia reminds me a lot of Alaska/Yukon territory. Although it lacks the biodiversity of North American wildlife, it makes up for it by its vast romantic geological panoramas.

 

 

Photo album available here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.714175648604609.1073741912.392545607434283&type=1&l=caca84e022

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BARILOCHE - OUR FIRST ENTRY TO ARGENTINA

March 2, 2014 James Stauber
Evening clouds entering Argentina.

Evening clouds entering Argentina.

In order to reach the Carretera Austral we drove through a beautiful stretch of Argentina where we met our new friend Pavel from Jawa kolem sveta (Jawa Around the World) who we'd soon meet in much difficult situation. We drove around the vacation town of Bariloche and made our way southwest toward the border crossing with Chile near the town Futaleufu, which is known for its great white water rafting.

 

 

 

Photo album available here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.712146088807565.1073741911.392545607434283&type=1&l=c5d179a4e0

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SANTIAGO TO ARGENTINA

February 26, 2014 James Stauber
Until now I have not used paper maps, just my Google maps on the iPhone.

Until now I have not used paper maps, just my Google maps on the iPhone.

I had to wait a few days in Santiago for my new GoPro camera to arrive. After my Hero3 drowned in salt water in the San Blas islands I contacted the company for a replacement. They stand behind their products and after I sent them the damaged camera from La Paz, they immediately sent me a new one to Santiago. So I used this time to explore the city with friends and to plan our journey through the wild wild south of Chile/Argentina. I decided in our situation it would make more sense to drive around through Argentina in order to reach the famous Carretera Austral in Chile. So in the town of Osorno we took a left turn and headed towards the Argentine border through the national park Puyehue.

 

 

 

Photo album available here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.711942138827960.1073741910.392545607434283&type=1&l=11a8a6640e

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VALPARAISO

February 24, 2014 James Stauber
Valparaiso is famous for its gorgeous street art.

Valparaiso is famous for its gorgeous street art.

This is one of my favorite South American cities. It has a Bohemian/European vibe, its streets in the center reminded us of parts of Prague and the street graffiti art is just amazing.

 

Photo album available here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.710663225622518.1073741909.392545607434283&type=1&l=239075be10

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